How to install hardwood floors like a pro

Installing a real wood floor can add a touch of elegance and warmth to any home. While the process may seem daunting, it is a project that can be tackled by anyone with basic DIY skills and the right tools. There are many types of flooring on the market today, each may require a different method of installation. While we will try to keep it broad, we will mainly be focusing on modern click lock flooring as well as touching on others, such as tongue and groove. Click here for more information on the difference between those two. If you already know, then let’s get into the step-by-step guide on how to install a real wood floor yourself:

Wood flooring in a living room

How to install wood flooring

Prepare the subfloor

  • The first step in installing a wood floor is to prepare the subfloor. The subfloor must be clean, dry, level, and structurally sound. If you're installing over a concrete slab, make sure it is dry and free of moisture. For a wooden subfloor, ensure that it is level and free of squeaks. Sand down any high spots and fill in low spots with levelling compound.

  • If the subfloor is unlevel then it must be screeded before any flooring is down. If you install a wood floor over an unlevel subfloor, then it will create voids under the planks which will creak when stepped over.

Acclimate the wood

  • Wood is a natural product that expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. As a hydrophillic material, wood tends to absorb water, which results in the wood swelling and expanding. Like wise, if wood that has been in a humid environment then goes into a dry one, it will dry out and contract. This is why it is crucial to let any wood flooring sit in a room for a period of 24-72 hours prior to installation. It will allow the wood to adjust to the average humidity level and temperature of the room so it doesn’t expand or contract when it is down, which could result in the boards buckling or warping, or cause damage to your home.

  • Before installation, allow the wood to acclimate to the environment where it will be installed. Place the wood in the room for at least 72 hours to adjust to the temperature and humidity levels.

Measure and plan

  • Measure the room and calculate the square footage to determine the amount of wood you'll need. Add 10% to the total measurement to account for waste and mistakes. Plan the layout of the floor, taking into consideration any obstacles such as doorways and vents. Decide on the direction of the planks, as this can affect the appearance of the floor.

Install the underlayment

  • Considering what underlay to buy is an important part of laying the floor. If you are gluing down a floor straight to the subfloor, you don’t need any underlay. If you are floating the floor, then you will need underlay. If the subfloor is concrete, you need a underlay with a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) layer. These are usually green foam or rubber underlays. These underlays are the safest option and can be used on any subfloor.

  • If the subfloor is also wood, then you can use different, often cheaper underlays like fibre based ones.

  • There are many other options for underlay, ranging from underlays that hold more heat, or soundproofing underlays. Ultimately it depends on your preference, but the most important considerations are the first two points above.

Install the first row

  • Start at the longest wall in the room and lay the first row of planks with the tongue facing the wall. Use spacers to maintain a gap of 1/4 inch between the planks and the wall. This is an expansion gap, and with wood flooring imparticular it is very important that you leave an expansion gap around the walls. As the year goes on the humidity and temperature levels in your house will change, which will cause your flooring to expand and contract. This space gives it the breathing room to do so, and thus the boards will not buckle or creak as a result.

  • You can create a staggered pattern with the first planks so that the ends of each row are not in line with the previous row. This is conventional, but also a stylistic choice. If you have random length flooring then this will already be done for you, if the planks in the pack are all the same size, then you can cut different lengths out and use them as different starting points, or use the off cuts to start a new row.

  • If you are not floating the floor, then nail or staple the planks to the subfloor, making sure they are level.

Install the remaining rows

  • Continue installing the planks, clicking them together one by one as you go. Having a rubber mallet and a tapping block will be useful for this. This is the relatively simple part of the process. If your are gluing or nailing the floor, then use a flooring stapler to secure them to the subfloor. Stagger the planks so that the ends of each row are not in line with the ends of the previous row. Use a mitre saw to cut the planks to fit around obstacles such as doorways.

Finish the edges

  • If there are already skirting boards in place when the floor is installed, then you can cover the expansion gaps with scotia beading. Or if there are no skirting boards, then simply put skirting boards on the wall when the flooring is down to cover the gap.

Enjoy your new floor!

  • With the installation complete, it's time to enjoy your beautiful new wood floor. Regular maintenance, including sweeping and cleaning up spills promptly, will help keep your floor looking great for years to come.

Installing a real wood floor can be a challenging project, but with some patience, attention to detail, and the right tools, it's a job that can be tackled by a DIY enthusiast. By following these steps, you'll be able to enjoy the warmth and beauty of a real wood floor in your home. These same steps can be followed for laminate flooring and LVT click flooring, with these two being even simpler processes than wood!

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